Scrolling through social media feeds in China, you’d be hard-pressed to miss the recent surge in content about the lives of waimai xiaoge – takeout delivery drivers. These individuals, recognizable by their brightly colored uniforms and tireless crisscrossing of city streets, have become unlikely protagonists, capturing the attention and imagination of Chinese netizens. Whether it’s a heartwarming anecdote about a driver going above and beyond for a customer, a glimpse into the grueling reality of their daily grind, or a discussion about their precarious working conditions, stories about these “knights of the road” are resonating deeply.
Capitalizing on this cultural phenomenon, veteran journalist Yang Liping delves into the world of China’s takeout delivery drivers in her book “中国外卖” (Takeout in China), published in July 2022 by Zhejiang People’s Publishing House. The book has garnered significant attention on the Chinese internet, praised for its honest and humanizing portrayal of this often invisible workforce. Readers are captivated by the personal stories and experiences shared, offering a unique window into a world most only interact with through a smartphone screen.
Yang Liping, a renowned author known for her in-depth reporting on social issues, embarked on a two-year journey to document the lives of these individuals. Driven by a desire to understand the faces behind the helmets, she conducted extensive interviews with nearly a hundred delivery drivers across various cities, capturing their struggles, aspirations, and the complex realities of navigating life in China’s rapidly evolving urban landscape.
Through her insightful writing and compelling storytelling, Yang Liping illuminates the lives of these everyday heroes, challenging readers to look beyond the convenience of takeout and recognize the human cost behind every delivered meal. “中国外卖” is not just a book about food delivery; it’s a testament to the resilience of the human spirit, the enduring power of community, and the pursuit of a better future amidst the challenges of modern China.
The Faces Behind the Helmets: Stories of Struggle and Resilience
1. “Order God” in the Making
Chu Xuebao, a 31-year-old man from rural Anhui province, is a force to be reckoned with in the world of takeout delivery. Known as the “Order God” for his relentless work ethic, Chu pushes himself to the limit, often completing over 70 orders a day, his blue delivery uniform a familiar blur on the streets of Hangzhou. His drive stems from a deep-seated fear of poverty, a familiar specter that has haunted his family for generations.
Chu’s journey began in a poverty-stricken village, where opportunities were scarce, and the weight of tradition heavy. He dropped out of school in his early teens, recognizing the need to contribute to the family’s meager income. Like many young men from rural China, he sought work in the booming manufacturing sector, finding a job in a garment factory. There, he spent years hunched over a sewing machine, the whirring of the motors a constant soundtrack to his days. The work was monotonous, the hours long, and the pay barely enough to make ends meet.
His dedication to providing for his family, a wife and two young children, kept him going. But the toll on his body was undeniable. Years of sedentary work led to a debilitating back injury, making it impossible for him to continue in the factory. Facing an uncertain future, Chu stumbled upon an online ad for a takeout delivery job, promising a decent income with flexible hours.
Initially hesitant, he worried about the physical demands of the job exacerbating his back pain. But the allure of a higher income, the freedom of working outdoors, and the desperate need to keep his family afloat outweighed his concerns.
He quickly discovered that takeout delivery was no walk in the park. The pressure to meet tight deadlines, navigate the maze-like streets of Hangzhou, and deal with demanding customers proved challenging. Initially, he struggled to keep up with veteran drivers who seemed to glide effortlessly through the city, delivering order after order with ease. But Chu was determined to succeed.
He meticulously studied maps, memorized routes, and sought advice from experienced drivers, learning the tricks of the trade, from efficient packing techniques to mastering the art of navigating complex residential complexes. With each passing day, his confidence grew, his pace quickened, and his order count soared, eventually earning him the moniker “Order God”.
Chu’s story embodies the spirit of countless delivery drivers in China who, despite limited education and economic hardship, strive to create a better life for themselves and their families. They represent the backbone of China’s burgeoning gig economy, their dedication and hard work fueling the rapid growth of this vital sector.
2. Navigating the City of Dreams: A Couple’s Takeout Journey
Shenzhen, a sprawling metropolis on China’s southern coast, is known as the “City of Dreams”, a beacon of opportunity for millions seeking a better life. For Liu Haiyan and Liangju, two young women from rural Sichuan province, Shenzhen represented a chance to escape the crushing weight of debt and forge a new path.
Driven by financial desperation, they turned to food delivery, drawn to the promise of a quick and flexible income. Joining the ranks of Shenzhen’s vast army of takeout drivers, they soon discovered the challenges of navigating this male-dominated industry.
Liu Haiyan, a seasoned driver with years of experience, had already battled adversity. Forced to leave her hometown to repay crippling debts incurred from a failed pig farming venture, she had endured years of backbreaking work in factories and delivering heavy appliances, each job taking its toll on her health. Food delivery, while demanding, offered a glimmer of hope, a chance to earn a decent income without the physical strain of her previous jobs.
Liangju, on the other hand, was a newcomer to the city, wide-eyed and hesitant, her only possessions a suitcase and a wok. Leaving behind her job as a yoga instructor in a small town hit hard by the COVID-19 pandemic, she sought solace and stability in Shenzhen’s booming takeout industry.
Navigating the city’s labyrinthine streets, deciphering complex address systems, and dealing with impatient customers proved daunting. Liangju, overwhelmed by the city’s relentless pace, often found herself lost and frustrated, tears streaming down her face as she struggled to meet delivery deadlines.
Liu Haiyan, recognizing the vulnerability of her fellow female driver, took Liangju under her wing, offering guidance, support, and a sense of camaraderie in this often cutthroat world. She shared her hard-earned knowledge of the city’s shortcuts and back alleys, teaching Liangju the art of communicating with customers and dealing with challenging situations.
Their resilience was tested daily. Sweltering heat, torrential downpours, and navigating Shenzhen’s infamous “urban villages,” with their confusing layouts and hidden alleyways, became part of their daily routine. They faced discrimination, disbelief from customers surprised to see a woman delivering their food, and even harassment from some.
Yet, they persisted, their determination fueled by the desire for a better life. They celebrated small victories, a perfect delivery record, a kind word from a customer, and the growing balance in their bank accounts, a testament to their hard work and dedication.
Their story highlights the growing number of women entering China’s food delivery workforce, breaking down gender barriers and challenging traditional notions of “women’s work.” They demonstrate the strength and resilience of women in the face of adversity, their determination to carve out a space for themselves in a rapidly changing society.
3. 7.2 Yuan Dignity
The flickering streetlights cast a long shadow on Xiaoyu, a delivery driver in Handan, as he sat slumped on a curb, his exhaustion palpable. It was past midnight, the streets deserted, the city asleep. But Xiaoyu’s mind raced, replaying the events of the past hour, a bitter cocktail of frustration and humiliation churning in his stomach.
He had just completed a delivery, a simple order of malatang (spicy hot pot), a meager 7.2 yuan fee his only reward for navigating the city’s confusing streets. The customer, a woman, had provided the wrong address, forcing him to embark on a wild goose chase across town. Exhausted and frustrated, he finally reached her doorstep, only to be met with indifference and disdain.
“Are you just trying to get more money out of me?” she sneered, her words dripping with contempt.
Xiaoyu, a man who had faced his share of struggles, who had seen kindness and cruelty in equal measure, felt a deep sense of shame wash over him. It wasn’t about the money, he assured her, but about basic respect, an acknowledgment of the effort he had expended for such a paltry sum.
“I’ve saved people’s lives, helped stray animals, even received awards for my good deeds,” he recounted, his voice choked with emotion. “But tonight, for 7.2 yuan, I was treated like dirt.”
His story underscores the vulnerability of these essential workers, who often face disrespect and mistreatment despite providing a vital service. They are the unseen faces behind the convenience of online ordering, their labor taken for granted, their dignity often overlooked. Xiaoyu’s experience, a poignant reminder of the human cost behind every delivered meal, prompts us to reflect on the importance of treating these individuals with the respect and dignity they deserve.
Bonds Forged on the Road: Love, Family, and Community in the Takeout World
- 1. Love on Two Wheels
The heart of Hangzhou, China’s tech hub, beats to the rhythm of scooter engines and the clatter of takeout containers. For Yuan Xunan, a 34-year-old delivery driver, the city’s relentless pace was both a challenge and a comfort, a familiar backdrop to his solitary life. But fate, often hiding in the most mundane encounters, had other plans.
One busy afternoon, while waiting for an order at a bustling Korean restaurant, Yuan noticed a fellow delivery driver, a woman with her back turned, her yellow Meituan uniform a stark contrast to the sleek surroundings. He snapped a photo, sharing it with his team’s chat group, using it as a motivational jab at the younger drivers who often shirked their responsibilities. But the image of that lone figure, working diligently in a male-dominated world, stayed with him, a spark of curiosity igniting within.
Over the next few days, Yuan found himself searching for her, his eyes scanning the crowds of delivery drivers at every restaurant and street corner. It was at a busy intersection, their scooters momentarily paused at a red light, that he finally caught a glimpse of her. He seized the moment, striking up a conversation, his heart pounding beneath his blue Ele.me uniform.
“How long have you been doing this?” he asked, his voice barely audible above the roar of traffic.
“Not long, I’m new here,” she replied, her face hidden behind a helmet and mask, only her large, expressive eyes visible.
He boldly asked for her WeChat contact, offering to guide her through the intricacies of the delivery world. She seemed hesitant, her response a curt nod before the light turned green, sending them on their separate ways.
Days turned into weeks, his messages unanswered. He persevered, sharing snippets of his impressive daily order count, hoping to pique her interest. He learned she was struggling to adapt to the city’s demanding pace, her earnings meager compared to his veteran prowess.
One fateful afternoon, news spread through the network of drivers: a Meituan girl had been hit by a car. Yuan’s heart sank, a premonition telling him it was her. He rushed to the scene, relief washing over him as he found her with minor injuries, the accident handled by the traffic police. He instinctively checked her scooter, his trained eye spotting a potentially dangerous mechanical issue.
He took her to a repair shop, his concern growing as he learned she was using a faulty scooter, her brakes malfunctioning, a recipe for disaster on Hangzhou’s busy streets.
“This isn’t safe,” he insisted, “You need a new one.”
He sensed her hesitation, perhaps financial constraints or a reluctance to invest in a job she saw as temporary. He offered to lend her a spare scooter from his station, knowing the safety of this intriguing woman was paramount.
“I can’t change everything,” he admitted, his voice softening, “but I can at least make sure you’re safe. It would give me peace of mind.”
That night, his phone buzzed, a message from her, a simple “Are you off work?” His heart skipped a beat, a warmth spreading through his chest. He quickly finished his remaining deliveries, eager to meet her.
Over dinner, their masks finally off, he saw her beauty, those expressive eyes now framed by a warm smile, her long black hair pulled back in a ponytail. She confided in him, sharing her frustrations with her current job, her insecurities about navigating the city alone. He saw her vulnerability, her strength, and felt a connection deeper than anything he had experienced before.
Weeks later, she joined his Ele.me team, drawn by his persistent encouragement and the promise of better earnings. He became her mentor, guiding her through the platform’s system, sharing tips and tricks honed through years of experience. They began spending time together, their shared experiences forging a bond that transcended the transactional nature of their work.
One late autumn evening, as darkness enveloped the city, Yuan received a frantic call from her. His instincts kicked in, a wave of worry washing over him as he rushed to her aid. He found her stranded, her scooter battery drained, a common occurrence in the grueling world of takeout delivery.
This wasn’t the first time he had come to her rescue, her unreliable scooter becoming an unlikely catalyst for their burgeoning connection. As he helped her, a sense of responsibility, of protectiveness, welled up within him. He finally confessed his feelings, his words clumsy but sincere, a confession born from a desire to care for her, to shield her from the harsh realities of life in the city.
Their journey wasn’t easy. There were arguments, misunderstandings, and the constant pressure of their demanding jobs. But through it all, their love for each other grew, fueled by shared experiences, mutual support, and a deep understanding of the sacrifices they both made. Their love story, born on the bustling streets of Hangzhou, amidst the chaos of deliveries and the constant pursuit of earnings, is a testament to the enduring power of human connection in the face of adversity.
2. A Family United, a City Conquered
The year 2020 dawned on Wuhan, China, with a sense of foreboding. The bustling metropolis, known for its vibrant street life and culinary delights, was about to become the epicenter of a global pandemic. For Wang Tao, a 35-year-old food delivery driver, the news of the impending lockdown brought a mix of anxiety and a strange sense of purpose.
He had spent the past year navigating the city’s streets, delivering meals to countless homes and hospitals, witnessing firsthand the growing fear and uncertainty as the virus spread. But it was the thought of his family, his wife and two young children living in their rural hometown, that weighed most heavily on his mind.
Wang Tao had moved to Wuhan several years earlier, leaving his family behind in search of better opportunities. He had tasted success as a construction contractor, building a comfortable life for his loved ones. But a series of unfortunate events, culminating in a workplace accident that left him deeply in debt, had forced him to seek refuge in the anonymity of the gig economy, becoming a food delivery driver.
The lockdown meant he couldn’t return home for the Lunar New Year, a time for family reunions and celebration. Instead, he found himself alone in his sparsely furnished apartment, his phone buzzing with worried calls from his parents and wife.
“Don’t go out,” his mother pleaded, her voice trembling with fear. “Stay safe, we will find a way to send you money.”
The city around him had transformed into a ghost town, the streets eerily quiet, the usual cacophony of traffic and human activity replaced by a chilling silence. But amidst the fear and uncertainty, a sense of responsibility, a desire to help, took root within Wang Tao. He continued delivering food, becoming a lifeline for those trapped in their homes, providing essential supplies to those in need.
He witnessed the city’s struggles firsthand, the fear in the eyes of his customers, the exhaustion of the medical staff he delivered to, the desperation of those who had run out of essential supplies. He saw the best and worst of humanity, the kindness of strangers who offered him words of encouragement and a warm meal, the selfishness of those who hoarded supplies and exploited the situation for personal gain.
As the lockdown stretched into weeks, Wang Tao’s wife, determined to reunite their family, made a bold decision. She packed their belongings, gathered their two young children, and boarded a train to Wuhan, braving the risks and uncertainties to join her husband in the besieged city.
Their reunion was bittersweet. The cramped apartment they shared became a sanctuary, a reminder of the importance of family in the face of adversity. But the challenges of living in a locked-down city, the constant fear of infection, the financial strain of supporting a family on a delivery driver’s income, and the added responsibilities of childcare and homeschooling took their toll.
Their story is a testament to the enduring strength of family bonds, the sacrifices made by countless individuals during the pandemic, and the resilience of the human spirit in the face of unimaginable challenges. It’s a reminder that even in the darkest of times, love, hope, and the unwavering support of loved ones can help us overcome even the most daunting obstacles.
3. Brotherhood of the Road
In the sprawling urban landscape of Hangzhou, a unique bond unites a group of food delivery drivers. Hailing from the same village in rural Henan province, they are the “Takeout Brotherhood,” a band of brothers who navigate the city’s streets, their blue and yellow uniforms a symbol of their shared identity and mutual support.
Their journey began with Hu Yangyang, a young man who ventured to Hangzhou in search of a better life. Finding success in the world of food delivery, he spread the word back home, inspiring his brother, cousins, and friends to join him in the city.
One by one, they arrived, their scooters forming a convoy as they conquered the city’s labyrinthine streets, their shared dialect and familiar faces offering a sense of comfort and camaraderie in an otherwise impersonal urban environment. They formed a WeChat group, a virtual hub where they exchanged tips, shared frustrations, and celebrated victories. They learned from each other, veteran drivers guiding newcomers through the intricacies of the platform’s algorithms, navigating tricky delivery locations, and dealing with demanding customers.
They stood by each other during tough times. A scooter breakdown, a lost order, a confrontation with an angry customer, each challenge met with collective support and practical solutions. They pooled their resources, lending each other money during lean times, sharing meals, and providing a shoulder to lean on when the pressure of the job became overwhelming.
They celebrated their successes together, bragging about daily earnings, sharing tips on maximizing profits, and marveling at their collective rise from rural obscurity to urban “kings of the road.” Their story highlights the enduring power of community in a world increasingly defined by individual ambition and fleeting digital connections. In the Takeout Brotherhood, we see the resilience of the human spirit, the strength found in shared struggles, and the enduring hope for a better future, forged on the asphalt battlefield of food delivery.
Beyond Deliveries: Aspirations, Challenges, and the Pursuit of a Better Future
1. Breaking Through the Ceiling
The narrative surrounding food delivery drivers often revolves around hardship and precarity. While this portrayal reflects a stark reality for many, it doesn’t capture the full spectrum of experiences within this diverse workforce. Cao Liaodong, a delivery driver in Hangzhou, defies these stereotypes, proving that with hard work, determination, and savvy financial planning, even those in seemingly low-status jobs can achieve a level of success that belies their humble profession.
Cao, originally from rural Henan province, arrived in Hangzhou carrying the weight of his mother’s medical debts. He had tasted success in the past, running his own businesses, but fate, as it often does, had dealt him a cruel blow, leaving him financially vulnerable. Driven by the need to repay his debts and provide for his family, Cao, like countless others from rural China, entered the world of food delivery.
He embraced the hustle, working long hours, mastering the city’s intricate routes, and capitalizing on peak demand periods. He wasn’t afraid to take on challenging orders, the heavier, the farther, the better, for each one translated into higher earnings. But unlike many drivers who lived paycheck to paycheck, Cao possessed a keen financial sense, saving diligently and planning for the future.
His efforts paid off. He not only managed to repay his debts but also achieved a feat that seemed impossible for most delivery drivers – he purchased not one, but two apartments in Hangzhou. “People ask me if I’m ashamed to be a delivery driver,” Cao said with a chuckle, “I tell them, ‘Why should I be? I’m not stealing, I’m not cheating, I’m earning an honest living, and I own two apartments!’”
Cao’s story offers a powerful counter-narrative, challenging the perception of delivery drivers as a homogenous group trapped in a cycle of poverty. It highlights the potential for upward mobility within this sector, demonstrating that even those starting from humble beginnings can achieve financial security and stability through hard work, discipline, and a strategic approach to personal finance.
2. More Than Just a Job
For Wang Jibing, a 53-year-old delivery driver in Kunshan, the daily grind of delivering meals is more than just a means to an end. It’s a source of inspiration, a window into the human condition, and a catalyst for his creative expression as a poet. Wang’s story, a testament to the diverse backgrounds and aspirations of those who find themselves in the world of food delivery, challenges the notion of this profession as a dead-end job, revealing the richness and complexity of individual lives often hidden beneath the anonymity of a uniform.
Wang’s love affair with poetry began in his youth, a passion he pursued in secret, fearing judgment from those who saw it as a frivolous pursuit. He had carried this love with him through a life marked by hardship and resilience, from the backbreaking labor of digging for sand in the riverbeds of his rural hometown to the uncertainties of migrating to Kunshan with his wife and children in search of a better life.
He found solace in writing, capturing the rhythms of the city, the fleeting encounters with strangers, and the quiet moments of reflection during lulls in deliveries. The streets became his muse, each delivery a potential story waiting to be told, a glimpse into the lives of those he served.
His poems, infused with a poignant blend of realism and empathy, offer a unique perspective on the world of food delivery, revealing the humanity behind the hurried transactions and the silent struggles of those who keep the city fed. He writes of the camaraderie among drivers, the kindness of strangers, the frustrations of navigating confusing addresses, and the quiet dignity of those who persevere despite adversity.
Wang’s story, a reminder that even in the most unexpected of places, art can flourish, and passion can find its outlet, challenges us to look beyond the stereotypes and recognize the individuality of those who often go unnoticed. It’s a testament to the power of human creativity to find expression amidst the mundane, transforming the everyday into something extraordinary.
3. Delivering Hope: The Future of Takeout in China
Yang Liping’s “中国外卖” offers a crucial window into the often-unseen world of China’s food delivery drivers. Through a tapestry of intimate portraits, she captures the human cost behind the convenience of takeout, revealing a complex world of individual struggles, aspirations, and the enduring search for dignity and a better future.
We meet individuals driven by diverse motivations, from escaping rural poverty to supporting their families, pursuing dreams, and even finding solace in creative expression. We witness their resilience in the face of grueling work conditions, societal prejudice, and the uncertainties of a rapidly evolving gig economy.
The book is a powerful reminder of the vital role these often-invisible workers play in modern Chinese society. They are the cogs in the machine that keeps the country fed, their tireless efforts fueling a booming industry and satisfying the appetites of millions. But their story is more than just an economic narrative; it’s a human story, one of dreams, sacrifices, and the enduring human spirit.
Yang Liping’s book is a must-read for anyone seeking to understand the realities of modern China, a society grappling with rapid urbanization, economic disparities, and the challenges of creating a more equitable future for all. By giving voice to those often silenced, she encourages us to look beyond the convenience of a delivered meal and recognize the humanity behind the helmet, the aspirations within each delivery, and the hope that fuels their journey.
Yang Liping’s “中国外卖” (Takeout in China) provides a much-needed glimpse into the lives of China’s food delivery workers, a demographic often overlooked despite their integral role in the fabric of modern Chinese society. Through intimate and often poignant narratives, the book paints a multifaceted picture of this workforce, revealing a world of resilience, struggle, and unwavering hope.
The stories within these pages offer a window into the diverse backgrounds and motivations of those who don the blue and yellow uniforms of food delivery platforms. We encounter individuals like Chu Xuebao, the tireless “Order God,” driven by the responsibility of providing for his family, and Liu Haiyan, a woman navigating the challenges of a male-dominated industry to escape crippling debt. We meet Wang Tao, who finds solace and a renewed sense of purpose delivering food during Wuhan’s COVID-19 lockdown, and the “Takeout Brotherhood”, a group of friends finding strength and camaraderie in their shared journey from a rural village to the bustling streets of Hangzhou. We are touched by the story of Li Bangyong, a single father who, despite a debilitating work injury, carries his young daughter on his back as he delivers meals, and are inspired by the determination of Wang Jian Sheng, who overcomes physical disability to find dignity and respect in his work.
“中国外卖” is more than just a collection of stories; it’s a testament to the human spirit’s ability to endure and thrive amidst adversity. It challenges preconceived notions about this often-invisible workforce, urging us to recognize their contributions, understand their struggles, and acknowledge their aspirations. For a deeper dive into this world, and a richer understanding of this vital segment of Chinese society, I highly recommend exploring the original work.
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