Business

花西子 (Florasis): A Chinese Beauty Brand’s Ascent and Controversy

Key Points:

  1. Florasis has achieved significant success in expanding its presence beyond China, particularly in Japan, where its tailored approach to product offerings and marketing has resonated well with consumers.
  2. While the brand’s Eastern aesthetics and allure of “C-beauty” have garnered interest in Western markets, cultural barriers pose challenges. Florasis is navigating this by emphasizing technical innovation and universal beauty themes in its marketing campaigns.
  3. The recent 79-yuan controversy highlighted the need for Florasis to re-evaluate its pricing strategy and cultivate brand loyalty beyond influencer partnerships. Transparent communication, independent digital platforms, and ethical practices are key to rebuilding trust.
  4. Florasis must effectively communicate the value proposition behind its premium pricing, emphasizing high-quality ingredients, innovative technology, and meticulous craftsmanship to justify costs to consumers.
  5. To mitigate risks associated with over-reliance on influencers, Florasis needs to invest in its own digital platforms, engage in content creation beyond product promotion, and foster a vibrant online community.
  6. Prioritizing ethical and sustainable practices is crucial for Florasis’s long-term success, particularly in Western markets where consumers are increasingly conscious of environmental and social impact. Sourcing responsibly, eco-friendly packaging, and contributing to social causes aligned with brand values can enhance appeal to global audiences.

The global beauty landscape is shifting, and a new force is making its presence felt: C-beauty. Chinese beauty brands are no longer content with being domestic players; they are stepping onto the world stage, armed with a potent blend of innovation, quality, and a captivating cultural narrative. This ascent is fueled by “GuoChao,” a powerful national trend celebrating Chinese identity and heritage, resonating deeply with a new generation of consumers. Riding this wave is Florasis, a brand that has captivated the imagination with its exquisite embodiment of Eastern aesthetics.

Florasis isn’t just another makeup brand; it’s a carefully crafted experience that draws inspiration from the rich tapestry of Chinese art, history, and traditional medicine. The brand’s name itself evokes a sense of delicate beauty, derived from the Latin “flos,” meaning flower, entwined with the notion of flourishing and growth. This carefully curated image extends to its products, each a meticulously designed object d’art, from the intricately engraved lipsticks to the delicately pigmented eyeshadow palettes housed in compacts reminiscent of ancient artifacts.

But Florasis’s journey is not without its complexities. While the brand has achieved phenomenal success, its reliance on influencer marketing, particularly its close association with livestreaming giant Li Jiaqi, has drawn scrutiny. Recent controversies surrounding product pricing and perceived value have exposed the vulnerabilities of a brand intricately tied to a single marketing channel. This report delves into the fascinating tale of Florasis: the vision of its founder, the meticulous approach to product development, the strategic use of influencer marketing, and the challenges it faces as it navigates the intricate world of global beauty.

The Genesis of Florasis: A Dream Rooted in Tradition

Unlike Mao Geping, Florasis is a new Chinese beauty brand founded in 2017.

The story of Florasis is intricately interwoven with the vision of its founder, Wu Chenglong, a man known within the company by his evocative flower name, Hua Mantian, or “Flowers Fill the Sky.” His journey, much like the brand he birthed, reflects a deep-seated passion for Chinese aesthetics and a keen understanding of the modern consumer landscape.

Founder of Florasis

Wu’s fascination with Chinese aesthetics wasn’t a marketing ploy; it was a passion cultivated from a young age. Unlike the typical beauty industry entrepreneurs who often hail from business or marketing backgrounds, Wu graduated with a degree in landscape architecture, a field that immersed him in the intricacies of Eastern design principles, botanical knowledge, and a deep appreciation for the harmonious balance between nature and artistry. This unconventional background, steeped in the nuances of Chinese gardens and traditional symbolism, would become the foundation upon which Florasis was built.

But Wu wasn’t just a dreamer; he was a pragmatist with a sharp business acumen. His early career saw him dive headfirst into the burgeoning world of e-commerce, a realm where he quickly demonstrated an exceptional talent for understanding the digital consumer. As the e-commerce director for the venerable Chinese cosmetics brand, PehChaoLin, Wu orchestrated a marketing and sales blitz that catapulted the brand’s online presence. Under his leadership, the PehChaoLin online flagship store witnessed a staggering surge in sales, jumping from a modest 4,000 yuan to an impressive 2.1 million yuan in daily sales – a success story that quickly cemented his reputation as an e-commerce wizard.

This success wasn’t just luck; it was fueled by Wu’s innate understanding of the Chinese consumer and a willingness to challenge conventional wisdom. He was an early adopter of innovative online marketing strategies, pioneering techniques that would become standard practice in the years to come. His understanding of online platforms, user experience, and digital storytelling gave him an edge in a rapidly evolving market.

But despite his achievements, Wu harbored a larger ambition, a desire to create a brand that went beyond mere commerce and transcended into a cultural statement. He saw a gap in the market for a brand that truly encapsulated the essence of Chinese beauty, one that could compete with international giants not just in quality, but also in cultural significance. Existing domestic brands, he felt, often fell short in capturing the imagination and sophistication of Chinese heritage.

This desire to fill this void, to create a brand that could be a beacon of Chinese aesthetics and cultural pride, was the driving force behind the creation of Florasis. It was a dream rooted in tradition, a vision to create a brand that could stand shoulder-to-shoulder with international giants, showcasing the depth and richness of Chinese heritage to the world.

The Florasis Formula: Blending Tradition and Innovation

At the heart of Florasis’s appeal lies a captivating blend of ancient wisdom and modern innovation. Their mantra, “Oriental beauty, nourished by flowers,” is more than just a marketing tagline; it’s a philosophy woven into the very fabric of their products. Florasis has artfully tapped into a longing for a more holistic approach to beauty, one that goes beyond superficial enhancement and embraces the nourishing power of nature. This approach resonates deeply with a global audience increasingly seeking natural and ethically sourced products.

This commitment to tradition is most evident in Florasis’s embrace of Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM). For centuries, TCM has revered the potent properties of botanicals, recognizing their ability to heal, restore, and enhance natural beauty. Florasis has cleverly leveraged this ancient wisdom, incorporating ingredients like ginseng, pearl powder, and a variety of flowers known for their skincare benefits, into its formulations. These ingredients not only appeal to a desire for natural beauty solutions but also lend an air of exoticism and intrigue to the brand’s image.

However, Florasis’s success isn’t solely due to its romanticized nod to the past; it’s the brand’s dedication to research and development, ensuring these traditional ingredients are harnessed for optimal efficacy and performance in modern cosmetic formulations. This is where Florasis’s “user co-creation” model comes into play, a remarkably insightful strategy that sets it apart from many traditional beauty brands.

Unlike brands that rely on internal testing and limited focus groups, Florasis has cultivated a vast network of over 100,000 dedicated “Hua Ban” (flower companions). These Hua Ban act as brand ambassadors and product testers, providing invaluable feedback throughout the development process. Florasis takes this feedback seriously, often going through multiple iterations of a product based on the Hua Ban’s real-world experiences and recommendations.

This approach has been instrumental in Florasis’s ability to not only create products that meet the high standards of modern consumers but also cultivate a loyal community that feels genuinely involved in the brand’s evolution. This is particularly crucial in the world of C-beauty, where consumers are discerning and vocal, demanding both quality and authenticity.

This dedication to blending tradition and innovation is beautifully exemplified in some of Florasis’s most iconic products, each a testament to the brand’s meticulous attention to detail and its deep understanding of both cultural heritage and modern beauty trends.

Airy Setting Powder: A Featherlight Touch of Ancient Elegance

This best-selling powder has become synonymous with Florasis, instantly recognizable for its stunning packaging inspired by traditional Chinese porcelain. But it’s the formula that truly sets it apart, achieving a delicate balance between a matte finish that controls oil and a weightless texture that doesn’t clog pores. This is no mean feat, especially for consumers used to powders that either cake on or fade quickly. The Airy Setting Powder achieves this ideal through a carefully calibrated blend of traditional ingredients like pearl powder, known for its luminosity and ability to absorb oil, combined with modern, micro-fine particles that ensure a smooth, seamless application.

But Florasis hasn’t rested on its laurels; the Airy Setting Powder has undergone numerous iterations based on user feedback, consistently improving its performance and expanding its shade range to cater to a wider variety of skin tones. This commitment to continuous improvement is a hallmark of the Florasis approach, reflecting a deep respect for its consumers and a dedication to delivering on its promises.

Engraved Lipsticks: A Fusion of Artistry and Performance

Florasis’s engraved lipsticks are perhaps the most potent embodiment of the brand’s fusion of traditional aesthetics and modern innovation. The intricate designs carved into the lipstick bullet are not merely decorative; they are a testament to a centuries-old Chinese engraving technique. This dedication to artistic detail elevates these lipsticks beyond mere cosmetic tools; they become objects of desire, coveted for their beauty as much as their functionality.

However, Florasis hasn’t sacrificed performance for aesthetics. The lipstick formulations themselves are meticulously developed, incorporating nourishing ingredients like flower extracts and botanical oils alongside pigments that deliver rich, vibrant color payoffs. The result is a lipstick that is both visually stunning and a pleasure to use, embodying the brand’s philosophy of “beauty, nourished by flowers.”

Eyebrow Pencils: Precision and Grace in Every Stroke

While perhaps not as visually striking as the engraved lipsticks, Florasis’s eyebrow pencils are equally impressive, demonstrating the brand’s ability to infuse even the most utilitarian of products with a touch of elegance. These pencils are renowned for their ultra-fine tips, allowing for precise application and hair-like strokes that mimic natural brow hairs. This dedication to precision has made these pencils a favorite among beauty enthusiasts, praised for their ability to create effortlessly defined yet natural-looking brows.

Florasis’s eyebrow pencils have also benefited from the user co-creation model, undergoing continuous refinements based on customer feedback. From adjusting the shade range to enhancing the formula’s longevity, Florasis has ensured these pencils meet the evolving needs of its consumers.

Through its meticulous approach to product development, Florasis has established itself as a C-beauty frontrunner, expertly weaving together the allure of ancient Chinese wisdom and the demands of modern cosmetic innovation. This careful blend, coupled with its insightful user co-creation model, has fostered a devoted community and positioned Florasis as a brand poised to redefine the global beauty landscape.

Riding the Wave of Livestreaming: The Double-Edged Sword of Influencer Marketing

In the bustling digital marketplace of China, livestreaming has emerged as a dominant force, transforming how brands connect with consumers. Florasis, with its founder’s innate understanding of the digital landscape, recognized this shift early on, strategically embracing livestreaming as a cornerstone of its marketing strategy. This decision, while proving remarkably successful in propelling the brand’s rapid ascent, has also exposed it to the inherent vulnerabilities of an over-reliance on influencer marketing, culminating in the recent controversies that have shaken the brand’s carefully crafted image.

Central to Florasis’s livestreaming success is its partnership with the undisputed “Lipstick King” of China’s online world, Li Jiaqi. This alliance, forged when Li Jiaqi was still a rising star in the livestreaming scene, became a mutually beneficial powerhouse. Florasis, eager to tap into the vast and engaged audience of Li Jiaqi’s live broadcasts, gained unprecedented exposure, while Li Jiaqi, known for his meticulous product knowledge and charismatic salesmanship, found in Florasis a brand that resonated with his fanbase.

The dynamics of this relationship, however, have been a subject of much speculation and debate. Accusations have swirled that Florasis paid exorbitant commission fees to Li Jiaqi, fueling his meteoric rise and cementing his dominance in the livestreaming sphere. These allegations, while never officially confirmed, have cast a shadow on the transparency and fairness of their collaboration. Critics argue that Florasis’s heavy reliance on Li Jiaqi has created an unhealthy dependence, placing the brand’s fate in the hands of a single influencer.

This dependence, while driving impressive sales figures in the short term, has revealed its inherent risks in the wake of the recent “79 Yuan Eyebrow Pencil Incident.” When Li Jiaqi, during a live broadcast, made a seemingly offhand remark defending the price of a Florasis eyebrow pencil, a consumer backlash erupted. Viewers, many of whom are fiercely loyal to Li Jiaqi and identify as budget-conscious shoppers, felt betrayed by his perceived defense of an overpriced product.

This incident starkly exposed the double-edged sword of influencer marketing. While it can catapult a brand to instant fame, driving sales and creating a dedicated fanbase, it also leaves the brand vulnerable to the influencer’s actions and the fickle nature of online sentiment. A single misstep, a perceived lack of authenticity, or a shift in the influencer’s audience can have devastating consequences.

The Florasis case highlights the crucial need for brands to diversify their marketing strategies. While influencer marketing can be a powerful tool, especially in a dynamic market like China, relying solely on it creates a precarious foundation. Brands must cultivate a robust online presence through their own channels, engaging directly with their audience, building trust through transparency, and creating a brand narrative that extends beyond the persona of any single influencer.

The fallout from the 79 Yuan controversy has forced Florasis to confront the limitations of its influencer-centric approach. The brand is now grappling with rebuilding consumer trust, emphasizing its commitment to research and development, and diversifying its marketing channels to reach a wider audience. Whether this course correction will be enough to weather the storm and solidify its position as a leading C-beauty brand remains to be seen. The lesson, however, is clear: while riding the wave of influencer marketing can be exhilarating, it is a journey best navigated with caution, a keen eye on the horizon, and a lifeboat at the ready.

The 79 Yuan Controversy: A Reckoning with Value and Perception

The carefully constructed world of Florasis, with its air of refined Eastern aesthetics and promises of quality, began to crumble in September 2023. The catalyst for this fall from grace was a seemingly innocuous 79-yuan eyebrow pencil, a product that ignited a fiery debate about value, perception, and the very essence of what constitutes a “good” product in the eyes of the ever-discerning Chinese consumer.

The “79 Yuan Eyebrow Pencil Incident,” as it quickly became known, erupted during one of Li Jiaqi’s wildly popular livestreams. As he presented the Florasis eyebrow pencil, a product known for its ultra-fine tip and smooth application, a barrage of comments flooded the chat, questioning the justification for its price. Viewers, many of whom identified as budget-conscious shoppers, expressed disbelief that such a small, albeit beautifully packaged, eyebrow pencil could warrant such a cost. Comparisons were swiftly drawn to other popular eyebrow pencils in the market, some costing a fraction of the Florasis price, further fueling the outrage.

Li Jiaqi, known for his close ties with Florasis and his passionate defense of the brands he promotes, attempted to quell the rising tide of discontent. He argued that the price reflected the intricate manufacturing process, the quality of ingredients, and the brand’s dedication to craftsmanship. However, his justifications fell on deaf ears, his words interpreted as out-of-touch elitism that betrayed his image as a champion of affordable beauty.

The incident quickly spiraled into a full-blown public relations crisis for Florasis. The brand, accustomed to rave reviews and the adoration of its devoted Hua Ban, found itself facing a wave of criticism and accusations of exploiting its loyal customer base. The 79-yuan eyebrow pencil became a symbol of the brand’s perceived disconnect from the realities of everyday consumers, its meticulously crafted image tarnished by the harsh light of public scrutiny.

Florasis’s initial attempts to address the controversy only served to exacerbate the situation. Their first public statement, a carefully worded apology letter posted on social media, was met with widespread disapproval. Critics slammed the letter as insincere and evasive, devoid of any genuine acknowledgment of the consumer’s concerns. It focused on reaffirming the brand’s commitment to Chinese heritage and its pursuit of excellence, side-stepping the core issue of price and perceived value. The letter, perceived as a tone-deaf attempt at damage control, further fueled the consumer backlash, turning what was initially a debate about a single product into a broader questioning of the brand’s values and authenticity.

The fallout from this PR debacle was swift and severe. Reports emerged of widespread discontent within Florasis, culminating in the rumored resignation of the entire PR department. This drastic move, unprecedented in the annals of C-beauty, highlighted the deep rift between the brand’s leadership and its frontline team responsible for managing public perception. This incident also revealed the fragility of a brand built primarily on influencer marketing, its fate inextricably linked to the volatile nature of online sentiment.

Florasis is now facing a critical juncture in its journey. The 79 Yuan Controversy has forced the brand to confront its vulnerabilities, compelling it to re-evaluate its pricing strategies, reassess its communication with consumers, and re-examine its dependence on influencer marketing. The brand is now tasked with rebuilding trust, not just by reiterating its dedication to quality and Eastern aesthetics, but by demonstrating a genuine understanding of its consumer base and a willingness to engage in open and honest dialogue about value and perception. Whether Florasis can navigate this complex terrain and emerge stronger from this crisis remains to be seen. The brand’s future hinges on its ability to learn from its missteps and adapt to the ever-evolving landscape of consumer expectations.

Florasis’s Path Forward: Navigating a Complex Landscape

Despite the recent turmoil surrounding the 79-yuan controversy, Florasis remains committed to its ambitious global expansion plan. The brand has already tasted success beyond China’s borders, particularly in Japan, where its delicate aesthetics and novel product offerings have found a receptive audience. The “Tong Xin Suo” (Concentric Lock) lipstick, for instance, achieved cult status upon its launch on Amazon Japan, rapidly ascending to the top three best-selling lipsticks despite its premium price point, even outpacing some established international brands.

This success in Japan is no accident. Florasis has astutely tailored its approach to resonate with Japanese consumers. Recognizing their affinity for softer color palettes and a preference for understated elegance, Florasis opted to launch the Concentric Lock lipstick in peach and berry hues rather than the bold reds popular in China. This attention to local preferences extends beyond color choices. Marketing campaigns feature Japanese models and imagery, reflecting an understanding of the nuances of Japanese aesthetics and consumer sensibilities.

However, replicating this success in Western markets presents a new set of challenges. While the intrigue surrounding “C-beauty” and the allure of Eastern aesthetics have piqued the interest of Western consumers, cultural barriers remain. The intricate symbolism woven into Florasis’s product designs and marketing campaigns, while deeply resonant in Chinese culture, might not hold the same meaning for Western audiences. The challenge, then, lies in finding a delicate balance: maintaining the brand’s core identity rooted in Chinese heritage while crafting a narrative that resonates with Western consumers.

Florasis is experimenting with different approaches to bridge this cultural gap. One strategy involves highlighting the technical prowess and innovation behind its products. The brand has been amplifying its “user co-creation” model, emphasizing its commitment to rigorous research and development, a language that appeals to Western consumers increasingly seeking efficacy and technological advancement in their beauty products.

Furthermore, Florasis emphasizes universal themes of beauty and self-expression in its international marketing campaigns. Visual storytelling, focusing on the artistry of makeup application and the transformative power of cosmetics, takes center stage, transcending language barriers and appealing to a global audience. Collaborations with international beauty influencers, particularly those with a diverse following, are also helping to broaden the brand’s reach and introduce its products to new demographics.

Yet, the long-term sustainability of Florasis’s business model, particularly in light of the 79-yuan controversy, hinges on more than just successful international expansion. The brand must address the fundamental issues exposed by the public backlash, demonstrating a genuine understanding of consumer concerns and a willingness to recalibrate its approach.

A Multi-Pronged Approach to Securing the Future

Firstly, Florasis needs to re-evaluate its pricing strategy. While premium pricing can be justified by high-quality ingredients, innovative technology, and meticulous craftsmanship, the brand needs to effectively communicate this value proposition to consumers. Transparent communication about the development process, highlighting the scientific research, user feedback integration, and meticulous manufacturing techniques, can help to bridge the gap between price and perceived value.

Secondly, Florasis must actively cultivate brand loyalty beyond its dependence on Li Jiaqi. The 79-yuan incident revealed the vulnerability of a brand overly reliant on a single influencer. Investing in its own digital platforms, developing engaging content that goes beyond product promotion, and fostering a vibrant online community where consumers feel heard and valued, are crucial steps to diversifying its reach and building a stronger, more independent brand identity.

Thirdly, Florasis must prioritize its commitment to ethical and sustainable practices. This is particularly crucial for Western markets, where consumers are increasingly conscious of the environmental and social impact of their purchasing decisions. Sourcing ingredients responsibly, adopting eco-friendly packaging, and contributing to social causes aligned with the brand’s values can enhance Florasis’s appeal to a global audience seeking brands that align with their ethical considerations.

The road ahead for Florasis is undoubtedly complex, marked by both opportunities and challenges. The brand has shown remarkable agility in adapting to the dynamic landscape of China’s beauty market and achieving initial success in international markets. However, the 79-yuan controversy has served as a stark reminder that brand building requires more than aesthetic appeal and influencer endorsements. Long-term success hinges on a genuine commitment to consumer value, transparency, ethical practices, and a brand narrative that resonates beyond cultural boundaries. If Florasis can successfully navigate these complexities, it holds the potential to not only solidify its position as a leading C-beauty brand but also become a symbol of China’s burgeoning cultural influence on the global stage.

References:

  1. https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/xUo9aigO3sIp0gxw52yslg
  2. https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/iVY9oQTMkT6gSkZng87BmA
  3. https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/FVc2jdEc-ulnNLzxMW9xSQ
  4. https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/ZK9O0S6Jxw8NlwUs3lTDcg
  5. https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/YFVUILAuHaVC-5LBJFvSvw
Aris

Airs in Shanghai, focus on Chinese food, lifestyle and business.

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